Victorian Mother of Pearl Hinged Comb

Ref: AN-0903-017

In the 1870s Queen Victoria became Empress of India and this led to an influx into Europe of ornaments made in India for the Western market.

We find these imported ornaments in a wide variety of materials and styles, such as carved ivory and tortoiseshell, metal filigree, granulation, and gilt metal repousee sometimes set with coloured stones. They are an interesting example of an era, and of how personal adornment was influenced by travel to other lands and cultures. Mother of pearl is another of these exotic materials which came to fashion by this means.

This large and chunky example has a heading carved out of one large piece of this beautiful iridescent material. It is affixed to the teeth by a hinged mount.

Size: 5 x 5 ins (approx 13 x 13 cms)

£80.00

Tortoiseshell and Gilt Metal Figural Female Comb

Ref: AN-0909-017

This fine large tortoiseshell back comb has a high gilt metal heading which is made in the very essence of the Art Nouveau taste.

Art Nouveau is a style is distinguished by complex interlaced lines, naturalistic or organic motifs, and by the use of human or animal forms. This one shows a figural female head placed among iris, an iconic flower much beloved of Art Nouveau jewellers. Another characteristic feature is the so-called whiplash effect of curved and interlaced lines, which is featured here on the wide upstanding heading.

Size: 5 ½ x 5 ins (approx 14 x 12.5 cms)

£110.00

Pre Ban Intricately Carved Large Export Comb

Ref: AN-0909-019

This handsome genuine tortoiseshell export comb probably dates from the 1830s or earlier. This fine example was probably hand carved in the Far East and imported into Europe. We find these imported ornaments in a wide variety of materials and styles.  They are an interesting example of an era, and of how personal adornment was influenced by travel to other lands and cultures. The heading is carved into a design resembling fine lace which features a series of oval cartouches. Placed within these are floral motifs representing peonies and lotus.

The comb is in good condition for its age but is not perfect. There is one missing tine on the right and a small tip of missing on the extreme left. There is also a contemporary repair on the right and a small amount of damage to the top right. See pictures 3 and 6. However these issues are not visible in wear and the comb does display well.  

The final illustration is from a contemporary photograph of the late 19th century and shows a sitter wearing a similar comb with a high elaborate heading.

Size: 7½ x 7¼ ins (approx 19 x 18.5 cms)

£135.00

Multi Rhinestone Lilac Art Nouveau Comb

Ref: AN-0909-022

Art Nouveau is a style which lasted a comparatively short period from about 1895 to 1919. It is distinguished by complex interlaced lines, and naturalistic or organic motifs. The earliest Art Nouveau ornaments were hand made but as the style gained in popularity, a whole class of popular jewellery was mass produced which reproduced the typical motifs of the genre, but were produced by machine and made in synthetics.

This very beautiful translucent celluloid comb has a design of iris, that iconic flower much loved by Art Nouveau jewellers on account of its exotic appearance. Here the flowers are rendered in dark blue and purple rhinestones with the leaves suggested in emerald green.

Size: 7 x 4 ins (approx 18 x 10 cms)

£80.00

Late Victorian Celluloid Comb with Fleur De Lys

Ref: AN-1104-021

This pretty late Victorian comb is of the type known as a mantilla comb from its resemblance to the ornaments worn by Spanish ladies with their native dress. The comb has a tall wedge shaped heading in pale translucent celluloid, while the prongs were opaque black. The chief feature of the heading is the prominent fleur de lys motif in black enamel emphasized with clear rhinestones.

The fleur de lys motif is commonly believed to represent a lily, signifying purity. Traditionally, it has been used to represent French royalty and is associated with the Royal Arms of France. Due to its three "petals" the fleur-de-lys has also been used to represent the Holy Trinity.

Size: 5¾ ins h x 3¼ ins w (approx 14.5 cms x 8 cms) 

£35.00

Victorian Celluloid Blue Rhinestone Comb

Ref: AN-1104-022

This handsome comb is an excellent example of celluloid overlay, whereby the ornament was made in two distinctly coloured layers placed one on top of the other. Here a translucent undercoat has been given a mottled brown upper shell on the tines, and traces of blue on the openwork heading.

The comb shows definite Art Nouveau influence in the organic feel of the flowing interlaced design. However it is not overtly in the mode. The design is pointed up with bright blue rhinestones which emphasize the flowing lines.

Size: 6¼ ins h x 5¼ ins w (approx cms 16 x 13.5 cms) 

£40.00

French Jet Spanish Mourning Hair Comb

Ref: AN-1104-023

This handsome ornament is a Spanish style mourning comb Made of glossy black celluloid and is literally encrusted with many small faceted stones of French jet. The openwork design of the heading features a motif reminiscent of curled feathers or possibly fern fronds,

The comb was probably worn by a lady who had entered what is called second mourning. Victorian mourning etiquette was very strict and required the bereaved to wear plain black with no ornaments for the first year. After this came secondary mourning when ornaments might be introduced, so long as they were dark or black. French jet, a faceted form of black glass, was one of the most popular materials used for this purpose.

Size: 6½ ins h x 4 ins w (approx 16.5 cms x 10 cms) 

£50.00

Mid Victorian Pierced Gilded Metal Hair Comb

Ref: AN-1110-020

Here is another fine mid Victorian hair accessory probably dating from the period 1860s to 1880s. The hairstyles of this period were elaborate and incorporated masses of false hair. They required large and important hair accessories to adorn them.

This lovely example has prongs of clarified horn which has been rendered into the colour of honey. They are fitted into a slot in the gilt metal heading. This heading, which is stamped with a design of leaves and flowers, was probably mass produced in a manufactory.

Size: 3¼ x 4½ ins (approx 8 x 11.5 cms) 

£70.00

Mid Victorian Greek Key Enamel Hinged Comb

Ref: AN-1110-021

This beautiful mid Victorian comb has prongs of horn treated to simulate tortoiseshell. The curved heading of gilt metal is decorated with a design in black enamel which is popularly called the Greek Key. This is one of the most popular motifs in Victorian hair accessories and jewellery and here we have a fine example.

The interesting thing about the construction is that instead of being upstanding, the heading folds down over the prongs. In the mid-Victorian coiffure, masses of false hair were worn in order to construct the elaborate coiffures. Combs such as these would have been very effective at concealing the addition of these false tresses. The final illustration shows a fashion plate from the magazine “Hairdresser’s Journal” for 1863 in which a model wears the kind of coiffure described above, and an elaborate comb in the centre of the chignon. The curls which appear from beneath may well be false.

Size: 3¼ x 4 ins (approx 8 x 10 cms) 

£80.00