Antique Haircombs
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Victorian Pre-ban Tortoiseshell Mantilla Style Comb

Ref: AN-0608-018

A handsome and nicely marked late Victorian mantilla style hair comb which probably dates from the period 1875-1900.

High combs of this type became popular due to the fashionable influence of the opera Carmen. The chief beauty of this type of ornament is the high polish and the beautiful random mottling of the shell.

This is a particularly good example with colours which vary from almost black to light amber.

Size: 5 ½  x 5 ½  ins (approx 14 x 14 cms) 

£40.00

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Late 19th Century Rhinestone Eagle Back Comb

Ref: AN-1008-013

This ornament is called a back comb because it was intended to be worn at the back of the head either above or below the chignon. It dates from the period 1890 to 1915.

The material is celluloid faux tortoiseshell and a distinctive decoration has been added in the form of a rhinestone eagle. The stones are claw set into a silver tone metal mounting which is held on by tiny rivets.

Size: 2 x 4 ins (approx 5 x 10 cms)

£20.00

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Late Victorian Faux Tortoiseshell Mantilla Style Hair Comb

Ref: AN-1108-012

This comb is of the type known as a Spanish or mantilla comb because it resembles the traditional ornaments worn by Spanish ladies with their native dress. This fashionable version of a mantilla comb probably dates from the latter part of the 19th or the beginning of the 20th century.

The production of the opera Carmen led to a fashion for such combs in the 1870s. This lovely comb has an attractive wedge shaped heading with a delicate openwork design of ovals superimposed upon conventional scrollwork.

Such combs were placed so that they were visible from every angle as in the final picture which is taken from a contemporary late Victorian cabinet photograph.

Size: 5½ x 5½ ins (approx 14 x 14 cms)

£35.00

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Pre Ban Carved Tortoiseshell Hair Comb

Ref: AN-0109-008

This handsome genuine tortoiseshell comb is from the early Victorian period and probably dates from the 1840s or 1850s. At this time comb making was still a handicraft and this fine example was probably hand carved in a small local manufactory. The heading has an interesting design with a lyre in the centre flanked by classical scrollwork.

Such combs were later widely imitated in celluloid faux tortoiseshell. However one of the distinguishing features of these genuine shell combs is that the tines are generally very much more pointed than in a celluloid example. This is because they were hand cut rather than moulded. The comb is in excellent condition for its age.

The sitter in the final picture shows a similar comb which is taken from a 19th century cabinet photo.

Size: 4½ x 5 ins (approx 11 x 12.5 cms)

£130.00

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Rhinestone “Eagle” Faux Tortoiseshell Back Comb

Ref: AN-0109-001

This is a nice quality hair comb dating from the late Victorian or Edwardian period of circa 1890 to 1910. It is of the type called a back comb being deeply curved to fit the back of the skull and to support the elaborate padded hairstyles and immense hats of the period.

The ornament has a metal mounting in the form of an eagle with outspread wings and encrusted with prong set clear rhinestones. This was a very popular motif of the period and the combs are commonly known as “Eagle” combs for this reason.

The final picture is taken from an oil portrait and shows the typical hair style of the fin de siecle period.

Size: 3½ x 4½ ins (approx 9 x 11 cms)

£35.00

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Victorian French Jet Mantilla Style Mourning Comb

Ref: AN-1008-016

This handsome mantilla style comb is made from black celluloid with an attractive openwork floral design. It is further embellished with black rhinestones made from a substance called French jet.

It was probably worn for mourning. Victorian etiquette was strict and decreed that in deep mourning, the widow and close relative of the deceased must dress in plain dark garments. The final picture shows the costume of a widow. Only ornaments of dull dark materials like Whitby jet were allowed and this was the material of choice.

When the supply of genuine Whitby jet began to fail various substances including black celluloid and the black glass called French jet were made into mourning jewellery. The combs were placed so as to be visible from all angles, as shown by the other picture which comes from a contemporary Victorian cabinet photograph.

Size: 7 x 3¾  ins (approx 17.5 x 9.5 cms)

£45.00

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Victorian French Jet Mantilla Style Mourning Comb

Ref: AN-1008-017

This large and handsome Spanish mantilla style comb is made from black celluloid with an attractive openwork design of radiating spokes. It is further embellished with black rhinestones made from a black glass substance called French jet.

It was probably worn for mourning. Victorian etiquette was strict and decreed that in deep mourning, the widow and close relative of the deceased must dress in plain dark garments. This mourning dress is illustrated in the final. Only ornaments of dull dark materials like Whitby jet were allowed and this was the material of choice.

When the supply of genuine Whitby jet began to fail various substances including black celluloid and the black glass called French jet were made into mourning jewellery. The combs were placed so as to be visible from all angles, as shown by the other picture which comes from a contemporary Victorian cabinet photograph. The sitter is wearing a high topped comb which is clearly visible from the front.

Size: 7½ x 6½  ins (approx 19 x 16.5 cms)

£45.00

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Mid Victorian Comb with Ivory Balls

Ref: AN-1008-018

Combs like this decorated with balls were known as peigne Josephine from a style made popular by the wife of the Emperor Napoleon I. They were produced in very large numbers in Victorian times, and appear in a wide variety of materials. This fine comb has balls carved from pre ban ivory and dates from the last quarter of Victoria’s reign. The ivory has darkened with the years and acquired a distinct patina which could probably be lightened with a proprietary cleaner if desired.

When Queen Victorian became Empress of India in the 1870s it began a vogue for oriental handicrafts. We find these imported ornaments in a wide variety of materials and styles, of which carved ivory and tortoiseshell are most prized. They are an interesting example of how personal adornment was influenced by travel to other lands and cultures.

The final picture is from a contemporary photograph and shows a sitter wearing a comb with large balls tiara style across the top of the head. Such combs could also be worn at the back of the dressing either beneath or above the chignon, as seen on the mannequin.

Size: 4¼ x 3½  ins (approx 11 x 9 cms)

£80.00

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Vulcanite Tiara Comb with Elaborately Carved Roundels

Ref: AN-1008-019

This wonderful tiara style hair accessory in carved vulcanite comb dates from the mid Victorian period of 1860-1880.  Here we have a classic hinged mid Victorian hair comb. The main feature is that the heading is adjustable, being attached to the prongs by a flexible hinge of gilt metal, which allows it to rotate through 90 or more degrees. This enables the ornament to be adjusted to various positions within the coiffure. Such combs may be worn either in the back of the hairdressing or above the forehead as a tiara. The final picture shows a sitter with a large tiara comb decorated with balls worn in this manner.

Vulcanite, (also known as Ebonite) is a natural rubber is in the form of latex obtained from certain tropical trees. It was introduced commercially in the 1840s and was adopted by comb manufacturers because it had several advantages over horn and tortoiseshell. This is a particularly elaborate example and has several large roundels carved with a floral design.

This comb has a minor issue in that one of two jet roundels on the centre of the heading is cracked. This could easily be removed and replaced by another jet motif. I do not believe it is original to the comb.

Size: 6½ x 5 ins (approx 16 x 13 cms)

£120.00

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Victorian Hinged Carved Mother of Pearl Comb

Ref: AN-1008-020

This wonderful carved mother of pearl comb dates from the later Victorian period. It has a heading with an openwork gallery and a foliate pattern. When Queen Victoria became Empress of India in the 1870s it began a vogue for oriental handicrafts. We find these imported ornaments in a wide variety of exotic materials  which include mother of pearl, ivory and tortoiseshell. They are an interesting example of how personal adornment was influenced by travel to other lands and cultures.

A significant feature is that the heading is adjustable. It is attached to the prongs by a flexible hinge of gilt metal, which allows it to rotate through 90 or more degrees. This enables the ornament to be adjusted to various positions.  Such combs may be worn either in the back of the hairdressing or above the forehead as a tiara. The final picture is taken from a contemporary print dated 1863 and shows a selection of such large elaborate combs.

The comb does have one minor issue in the form of an old repair to the mother of pearl whereby a metal plate secures the heading at the back. This can be seen in picture 4 and is invisible in wear or from the front.

Size: 3 x 5 ins (approx 8 x 12.5 cms)

£80.00

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