Pre-ban Genuine Ivory Floral Carved Comb

Ref: AN-0908-003

This very beautiful Victorian back comb is hand carved from one solid piece of genuine ivory in a pretty openwork floral design. It was probably made in the Asia or China for the Western market and imported into Europe.

My guess from the character of the design is that it was carved in India. After Queen Victorian became Empress on India in the late 1870s many items of jewellery and personal adornment were imported into Britain.

Ivory was one of the favourites and its popularity lasted well into the 20th century.

Size: 4½ x 4½ ins (approx 11 x 11 cms)

£120.00

Pre Ban Tortoiseshell Carved Hair Prong

Ref: AN-0902-002

This is a single pronged hair ornament which has been hand carved from genuine tortoiseshell. The natural colouring of the material has been very effectively used by the artist in interpreting the design.

This ornament probably dates from the decade 1895-1905, when the hair was drawn high onto the head in a topknot or up-do. This high chignon was often pierced by small combs, or single pronged ornaments with fancy headings of various kinds. Arrows, swords and daggers were very popular.

The final picture is taken from a late 19th century photograph and shows three American ladies with ornaments of similar character. The ornament has been broken and carefully repaired with a sterling metal plate at some time in the past.

Size: 7½ x 2 ins (approx 19 x 5 cms)

£20.00

Pre Ban Tortoiseshell Figural Bird Comb

Ref: AN-0902-003

This comb is of the type known as a Spanish or mantilla comb because it resembles the traditional ornaments worn by Spanish ladies with their native dress.

The production of the opera Carmen led to a fashion for high Spanish combs in the 1870s, and this one probably dates from that period. It is made from one large solid piece of natural shell which is highly polished and beautifully mottled and translucent in parts. It has an asymmetrical design which is carved with a figural bird.

Such high topped combs were placed so that they were visible from every angle as in the final picture which is taken from a contemporary late Victorian cabinet photograph. The sitter has a very elaborate hairstyle which is typical of the period.

Size: 7½ x 5½ ins (approx 19 x 14 cms)

£60.00

Faux Tortoiseshell Openwork Border Comb

Ref: AN-0902-004

This handsome comb is made from celluloid faux tortoiseshell and has a high wedge shaped heading with a plain central panel. This is surrounded by an openwork border of scrollwork, giving it an attractive scalloped profile. By this period genuine tortoiseshell was becoming expensive and most hair ornaments which appear to be made of tortoise are, in fact, made from synthetics. 

This ornament is of the type known as a Spanish or mantilla comb because it resembles the traditional ornaments worn by Spanish ladies with their native dress. The production of the opera Carmen led to a fashion for high Spanish combs in the 1870s, and this one probably dates from that period.

Such combs were placed so that they were visible from every angle as in the final picture which is taken from a contemporary late Victorian cabinet photograph.

Size: 6¼ x 4 ins (approx 16 x 11 cms)

£35.00

Pre Ban Tortoiseshell Mantilla Style Comb

Ref: AN-0902-005

This comb is of the type known as a Spanish or mantilla comb because it resembles the traditional ornaments worn by Spanish ladies with their native dress.

The production of the opera Carmen led to a fashion for high Spanish combs in the 1870s, and this one probably dates from that period. It is made from one large solid piece of natural shell which is highly polished and beautifully mottled and translucent in parts. It has a symmetrical radiating design in which the natural colouring of the material has been very effectively used by the artist.

Such high topped combs were placed so that they were visible from every angle as in the final picture which is taken from a contemporary late Victorian cabinet photograph. The sitter has a very elaborate hairstyle which is typical of the period.

Size: 8 x 5 ins (approx 20 x 12.5 cms)

£50.00

Faux Tortoiseshell Gilt & Turquoise Comb

Ref: AN-0902-007

This lovely comb is a fine example of a late Victorian or Edwardian comb which displays some characteristics of the Arts and Crafts movement, but is not overtly in the mode.

The main elements of this style were a concentration upon hand craftsmanship and often a very medieval look. This fine faux tortoiseshell hair comb has an elaborate filigree pattern and is set with blue ceramic cabochons representing turquoise and clear rhinestones.

There is a great deal of overlap between this style and Art Nouveau. Such combs were placed so that they were visible from every angle as in the final picture which is taken from a contemporary late Victorian cabinet photograph.

Size: 4 x 3½ ins (approx 10 x 9 cms)

£40.00

Black Fleur De Lys Mantilla Style Comb

Ref: AN-0909-007

This high topped black celluloid comb is of the type known as a Spanish or mantilla comb because it resembles the traditional ornaments worn by Spanish ladies with their native dress. It has a high heading adorned with a fleur de Lys motif set against open scrollwork. There was a fashion for combs of this type in the late 1870s after the debut of the opera Carmen and the style lasted until the end of the century in various guises. It was may have been worn for mourning.

Victorian etiquette was very strict and decreed that in deep mourning only dull dark materials like Whitby jet were allowed. However other dark materials such as black celluloid were often used as substitutes.

Size: 7¾ x 5½ ins (approx 19.5 x 14 cms)

£40.00

Late 19th Century Carved Ivory Roses Comb

Ref: AN-1008-028

This fine hand carved pre-ban ivory hair comb has a curved heading with an openwork gallery and a beautiful design of meandering roses with their leaves. This large and chunky example has a heading carved out of one large piece of this beautiful material. It dates from the late 19th or early 29th century and was probably carved in India.

When Queen Victorian became Empress of India in the 1870s it began a vogue for oriental handicrafts. We find these imported ornaments in a wide variety of materials and styles, of which carved ivory and tortoiseshell are most prized. They are an interesting example of how personal adornment was influenced by travel to other lands and cultures.

Size: 5 x 3¾  ins (approx 13 x 9.5 cms)

£130.00

Victorian Asymmetric French Jet Mourning Comb

Ref: AN-1008-029

This handsome mantilla style comb is made from black celluloid with an attractive asymmetric design resembling fern fronds. It is further embellished with black rhinestones made from a substance called French jet. There is 1 black rhinestone absent.

It was probably worn for mourning. Victorian etiquette was strict and decreed that in deep mourning, the widow and close relative of the deceased must dress in plain dark garments. This mourning dress is illustrated in the final picture. Only ornaments of dull dark materials like Whitby jet were allowed and this was the material of choice.

Size: 7 x 3 ins (approx 18 x 7.5 cms)

£50.00

Late 19th Century French Ivory Hair Comb

Ref: AN-1008-030

This beautiful ornament is made from an early celluloid substance, popularly known as French ivory, because it was invented to substitute for the much more expensive elephant ivory which was becoming rare and expensive by the early 20th century. It is made in the distinctive Art Nouveau  to Art Deco transitional style of the early 20th century.

Size: 6 x 4½  ins (approx 15 x 10.5 cms)

£40.00