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Antique Haircombs
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Auguste Bonaz
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Bonaz & Circle
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Unsigned Black Celluloid Triangular Art Deco Comb

Ref: AB-1009-018

This striking glossy black celluloid hair comb is unsigned, but is similar to the more modernist influenced shapes which emerged from Maison Bonaz in the late 1920s. The final picture shows an advertisement for the Bonaz atelier of the later 1920s, illustrating the more angular silhouettes which were produced.

Many of these later Art Deco combs are in pure, abstract forms, with little surface ornamentation for a very powerful effect. The strong contrasting shapes – ovals, squares, or oblongs - show a deep appreciation and understanding of the potential of the material.

More extreme ornaments like this example, which were produced under the influence of Art Deco, reflect the qualities of the modernist and futurist art movements, and the aesthetics of the Bauhaus. In Modernism the emphasis was upon the medium, and the process of production, rather than the intrinsic value of the materials, while the Bauhaus was an attempt to combine craftsmanship and high design with mass production.

Size: 8½ x 3 ins (approx 22 x 7.5 cms)

£40.00

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Pair Auguste Bonaz Hair Combs with Gilded Decoration

Ref: AB-1009-019

Here we have a matched pair of dainty hair combs from the house of Auguste Bonaz, probably dating from the 1930s. They have a faux tortoiseshell comb mount with a curled decorative element in gilt metal applied to the heading. The usual signature appears on the back.

The final picture is taken from an advertisement for House Bonaz dating from the 1930s and illustrates similar pairs of small combs. By this period the large elaborate mantilla style combs of the 1920s were entirely outmoded and dainty ornaments, often worn in pairs, were the hair accessories of choice.

Size: 1½ x 1¼ ins (approx 4 x 3.5 cms)

£40.00

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Unsigned Small Green Art Deco Side Comb

Ref: AB-1009-020

Hair combs from the late 1920s and 1930s are comparatively rare, because comparatively few were produced. The boyish shingle, which came into vogue about 1925, sounded the death knell of hair combs as a widely fashionable hair accessory, and they no longer appear in fashion magazines after this date. However, by 1930 many women were again growing their hair, and the fashion writers and hairdressing fraternity were making strenuous efforts to re-introduce the use of hair ornaments.  In this they had some partial success, but few hair accessories as such were produced. Those that do appear are usually small and rather modest.

This pretty little side comb is typical of the small and almost insignificant ornaments which we see in fashion illustrations. For example the final illustration, which is an ad for the combs of Auguste Bonaz, shows the model to be wearing a comb of very similar colour and dimensions.

Size: 1¾ x 2½ ins (approx 4.5 x 6.5 cms)

£20.00

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Auguste Bonaz Carved French Ivory Hair Comb

Ref: AB-1009-021

This is a very beautiful Ivorene or French ivory comb from the House of Bonaz early period, when elaborate surface ornamentation was still in vogue. The surface has been deeply “carved” with a design of roses and foliage. The effect is further accentuated by the use of pigment to add shading and depth to the design. The final two illustrations show magazine advertisements for House Bonaz dating 1918-19 and showing these more elaborate styles.

The years 1900-20 were a period of transitional between Art Nouveau and Art Deco. The Art Nouveau influence is indicated by naturalistic motifs like flora. However Deco took the free-flowing curves and naturalistic motifs and replaced them with more geometric and symmetrical themes which began to emerge about 1910. Naturalism in the representation of flowers, leaves and insects is replaced by stylisation and formalism. There is a stiffness and artificiality about the form of the general design here which is leading inexorably towards the formalised geometry of Art Deco. Some of the most beautiful and sympathetic treatments of the transitional style appear in combs and hairpins.

Size: 4½  x 3¼  ins (approx 11.5 x 8.5 cms)

£110.00

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Auguste Bonaz Signed Comb with Stained Glass Effect

Ref: AB-1201-016

Here is a beautiful early comb from the French high end workshop of Auguste Bonaz. It dates from the Art Nouveau to Art Deco transitional period whereby ornaments may display influences arising from both of these major art movements.

This lovely ornament is made in a form which gives the effect of stained glass in Jewelled colour like a church window. It resembles the transparent enamel called plique a jour which was employed by French Art Nouveau jewellers like Rene Lalique to represent the wings of butterflies, and anywhere where extreme delicacy of effect was required. The bright yellow and red of the Petunia flowers and the more subdued green of the translucent leaves show off well against the opaque black ground when the ornament is held up to the light. However this ornament is not in stained glass but in early celluloid, and shows the great beauty which could be achieved with this material.

As lovely as petunias are, the symbolism surrounding this flower is undoubtedly mixed. According to various sources, the petunia is said to symbolize anger and resentment.  Yet it is also believed to represent healing and a soothing presence.

Size: 6½ x 3 ins (approx 16.5 x 7.5 cms)

£150.00

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Large Unsigned White Mantilla Comb with Trellis Design

Ref: AB-1201-017

This ornament is a variation of the Spanish or mantilla comb because it resembles the traditional tortoiseshell ornaments worn by Spanish ladies with their native dress. The production of the opera Carmen led to a fashion for high Spanish style combs in the 1870s. They remained fashionable throughout the late Victorian and Edwardian periods, and into the 1920s.

This one is made in ivory coloured celluloid having a pretty star or possibly flower motif placed against trellis work. The treatment of the flowers and their placement against a latticework background reveals some Chinese influence. Art Deco was an eclectic style which derives influences from many cultures, including the Orient. The comb is therefore intended to be a synthetic ivory substitute.

Size: 7½ x 5½ ins (approx 19 x 14 cms)

£80.00

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