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Unsigned Multi Rhinestone Triangular Art Deco Comb
Ref: AB-1009-007
The new style of Art Deco was marked by a symmetry, geometric shapes, and general stylisation of decorative motifs. Many of these Art Deco combs are in pure, abstract forms, with little surface ornamentation for a very powerful effect. The strong contrasting shapes – ovals, squares, or oblongs - show a deep appreciation and understanding of the potential of the material. Very jazzy and geometric, the designs celebrated all the excitement of the machine age and were definitely more angular, fantastical and bold than the previous flowing designs of the Art Nouveau period.
This beautiful triangular example is made in translucent celluloid decorated with red enamel squares enclosed within multi rhinestone borders. One blue and one green rhinestone are absent. The final illustration shows an advertisement for Maison Bonaz with a very geometric hair comb.
Size: 6 x 4½ ins (approx 15 x 11 cms)
£70.00
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Auguste Bonaz French Ivory Mantilla Style Comb
Ref: AB-1009-009
This is a beautiful French ivory mantilla style hair comb by Maison Bonaz dating from the early part of the 20th century. It resembles a miniature version of the high combs which Spanish ladies wear with their lace veils in national dress.
Earlier examples from the Bonaz workshop are the most elaborately and intricately decorated. This one is becoming plainer with just a little openwork border detail for relief of the basic wedge shaped design. The manner in which the border is cut off at the top corners is deliberate and not a sign of damage.
The final illustrations show an advertisement for Maison Bonaz and a contemporary photograph which demonstrates how these tall combs were worn.
Size: 6½ x 3¼ ins (approx 16.5 x 8 cms)
£80.00
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Pair of Freres Signed Combs with Gilded Decoration
Ref: AB-1009-010
This is a very beautiful pair of mid 20th century hair combs by the Parisian firm of Fried Freres. They have a beautiful gilded decoration and are typical of the small but exquisite hair goods of the 1940s and 1950s. These combs are of a classic type which has been worn since the late 19th century, as shown by the contemporary photographs which comprise the last two photographs.
The history of Fried Frères dates back to 1886 when Gustave and Otto Fried were enterprising 20 years olds in Vienna. They conceived the idea of setting up shop in Paris to display and market the best of Bohemian creations and products. From 1918 the firm began production of costume jewellery, which was sold in the high class Parisian stores. Today the company remains at the heart of high class French fashion and costume jewellery.
Size: 4 x 2 ins (approx 10 x 5 cms)
£40.00
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Auguste Bonaz Mother of Pearl Inlaid Mantilla Style Comb
Ref: AB-1009-011
This is a beautiful and unusual signed comb from the Bonaz workshop. It takes the usual wedge shaped form of a miniature mantilla with a fluted surface effect and a scalloped top profile. However I have never seen one exactly like this with five inlaid panels of genuine (not synthetic) mother of pearl.
Although the decoration here is precious and elaborate we can see that the outline is simple and basic. This is heading towards the more modernist influenced combs of the late 1920s in which the workshop was far in advance of its time. Although House Bonaz had many imitators and contemporaries their designs are always forward looking. Some of the simpler and more geometric shapes could almost have been made today.
The final picture is taken from a late 19th century photo and shows a mantilla style comb of similar outline. The other is an ad from a contemporary magazine and illustrates some of the simply sculptural shapes being made by the Bonaz atelier.
Size: 5½ x 3½ ins (approx 14 x 9 cms)
£110.00
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Large Unsigned Black Mantilla Comb with Lacy Openwork
Ref: AB-1201-010
This large and very fine black celluloid mantilla style comb is unsigned but closely resembles examples made by the House of Bonaz at this time. It is a good example of the very large combs which were fashionable in the early 1920s with a high heading and openwork lacelike pattern. Such combs are represented in the beautiful advertisements which the Bonaz atelier commissioned from French magazines. The final picture shows one of these ads, with examples of very similar combs having tall wedge shaped headings.
Some of the combs at this period are so large that they resemble the mantilla combs which Spanish ladies wear with their native dress, and can rise as much as eight or ten inches from the crown of the head.
Size: 9 x 5 ins (approx 23 x 12.5 cms)
£90.00
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Unsigned Comb with Egyptian Influenced Gilded Design
Ref: AB-1201-011
Art Deco was an eclectic style which derived influences from many cultures, including the Orient and the Middle East. One of the most popular themes in the early 1920s was the Egyptian one, made popular by the discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamen. While not overtly in the Egyptian Revival mode this handsome black comb with its elaborate gilding has been given a subtle flavour if it. The radiating design located in the centre of the heading is suggestive of palm leaves.
The central openwork panel is surrounded by a deep border illustrated by stylised suns. The final illustration is taken from one of the early advertisements for the French house of Auguste Bonaz, which were an art form in their own right. It shows a fine Spanish style hair comb of the type which was typically worn aslant at an acute angle.
Size: 7 x 5 ins (approx 18 x 12.5 cms)
£80.00
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Large White Unsigned Mantilla with Lacy Openwork
Ref: AB-1201-012
This large and very fine white celluloid mantilla style comb is unsigned but closely resembles examples made by the House of Bonaz at this time. It is a good example of the very large combs which were fashionable in the early 1920s with a high heading and openwork lace like pattern. Such combs are represented in the beautiful advertisements which the Bonaz atelier commissioned from French magazines. The final picture shows one of these ads, with an example of very similar combs having a very tall heading. The other illustration is from the front cover of American Vogue for 1923.
These giant hair combs were extremely fashionable in the opening years of the 20th century and were much commented upon in fashion magazines of the period. Some of the combs at this period are so large that they resemble the mantilla combs which Spanish ladies wear with their native dress, and can rise as much as eight or ten inches from the crown of the head.
Size: 10 ins x 6¾ ins (approx 26 x 17 cms)
£90.00
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Large Red Unsigned Spanish Style Hair Comb
Ref: AB-1201-013
Art Deco was an eclectic style which derived influences from many cultures, including the Orient. So we find hair combs in the “Chinese” style like this large bright red ornament which simulates the appearance and look of Chinese lacquer furniture and ornaments. This elaborate example has a circular heading, having intricate openwork decoration. The colour red is important in Chinese culture and is considered to be lucky. For that reason it is the colour generally used for costume and decoration at weddings. The bright cinnamon red is therefore a hue which suggests Chinese lacquer ware.
The final two illustrations are taken from a contemporary French advertisement poacher for the comb of Auguste Bonaz. In them we see a large bright red comb of similar size and design being worn by one of the elegant sitters.
Size: 6½ x 4¼ ins (approx 16.5 x 11 cms)
£80.00
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Large Red Unsigned Mantilla Style Hair Comb
Ref: AB-1201-014
Some of the combs worn at this period were so huge that they resembled the high mantilla combs or Peinita worn by Spanish ladies with their traditional costume. The production of the opera Carmen led to a fashion for high Spanish combs in the 1870s, and they again became the vogue during the early 20th century Art Deco period. In some of these combs the heading might be as much as eight or ten inches in height. These combs were worn with lace mantilla veils and were very popular for fancy parties and for dressing up, which were favourite occupations in English country houses.
Here we have a bright red comb so large that it resembles a Spanish Peinita. It has a high rectangular heading which is smooth and glossy like lacquer. The only adornment is a band of pierced decoration along the top. From the mid 1920s, the designs of combs were becoming simpler and more sculptural. Exciting modernist costume ornaments, using pure, simple abstract forms, with only minimal surface ornament, give a very powerful effect. The final pictures show examples of large red hair combs from the Bonaz atelier.
Size: 6½ x 5¼ ins (approx 16.5 x 13.5 cms)
£80.00
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Auguste Bonaz Signed Comb with Faceted French Jet Balls
Ref: AB-1201-015
This is an example of one Auguste Bonaz best known comb designs. The final two pictures in the series show examples of hand coloured poacher illustrations from French high class magazines, both of which feature this very distinctive design. The combs of Maison Bonaz from the mid 1920s onward tend to be in bright primary colours such as red or green, or stark black and white. This is an excellent example.
The design is executed in glossy black celluloid and is in a variation of the classic spokes or sunray motif. Arising from the top of the heading are seven tall spikes, each of which is topped off by a faceted ball of French Jet. The balls are graduated in size, the largest being in the centre and tapering down towards the sides, like a coronet.
Size: 6½ x 5¾ ins (approx 16.5 x 14 cms)
£150.00
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