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Auguste Bonaz
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FruitArt Deco Collection
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Celluloid Overlay Comb with Amber Rhinestones

Ref: DE-1108-004

One of the most interesting things about early synthetic combs was the way in which various layers in contrasting colours could be superimposed upon one another.

This technique was called celluloid overlay.  is where the ornament is made from two distinctly coloured layers. Here, for example a translucent core has been cast with a shiny black shell, and then hand finished by being carved and engraved. This produces an interesting topographical effect with peaks of black accentuated by amber rhinestones and translucent edges to the design.

The final illustration is a postcard reproduction of the actress Clara Bow wearing two large Spanish style combs in similar fashion.

Size: 6½ x 5 ins; (approx 15 x 13 cms)

£40.00

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Pink Moiré Egyptian Revival Hair Comb

Ref: DE-1208-004

Art Deco is an eclectic style which draws upon many different influences for its ingredients. One of these was the oriental influence of lands like Egypt, which was very strong in the early 20th century. This taste for the exotic was given a fresh impetus by the discovery of the tomb of the boy king Tutankhamen in the early 1920s. 

The stunning treasures were an inspiration to designers in media of all forms. There was no attempt to reproduce genuine Egyptian ornaments, and the designs were a pastiche. They featured various Egyptian motifs like the papyrus and bulrush motifs which we see in the heading of this comb.

This large and handsome ornament is an excellent example of the genre of fancy surface finishes, in this case a pink moiré pattern similar to the effect of watered silk.

Size: 6¾ x 5 ins; (approx 17 x 12.5 cms)

£38.00

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Faux Tortoiseshell Filigree Comb

Ref: DE-1208-012

This very large and beautiful celluloid faux tortoiseshell lacy hair comb is an interesting example of a so-called fluted heading. In these combs the top is not flat or gently curved as in conventional examples. Rather the corners appear to have been pulled out like wings while the celluloid was still pliable.

A rear view shows that the heading also has a fluted profile, with the top edge curved slightly forward.

The final picture shows an engraved fashion plate from a British magazine dated 1923. The sitter has an extremely large hair comb worn at an asymmetric angle.

Size: 6 ½ x 7 ¼ ins (approx 16.5 x 19 cms)

£40.00

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Large Fluted Celluloid Overlay Hair Comb

Ref: DE-0109-010

This large sized hair comb is made by an interesting manufacturing technique called celluloid overlay. This is where the item is made in two separate castings of contrasting colours. Here for example a transparent base coat has been cast with a shiny upper shell which shows along the edges of the swirled design and the tips of the tines.

The design is a variation of the iconic spokes or sunray motif whereby lines radiate outwards from the base of the heading like the leaves of a fan.

Picture 9 is taken from a contemporary French fashion magazine called EROS and shows a model wearing a similar oversized hair comb at a jaunty angle.

Size: 6¼ x 7 ins; (approx 16 x 18 cms)

£38.00

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Large Openwork Comb with Snail Shell Design

Ref: DE-1008-015

It is interesting to compare the design of this comb with DE-1008-013 which features zoomorphic interlacement. Here we have circles and whorls which resemble highly stylised shells of snails or sea creatures. This comb was probably made in the transitional period between Art Nouveau and Art Deco, and reveals the influence of both these important art movements.

It has been manufactured by a process known as celluloid overlay whereby various layers in contrasting colours could be superimposed upon one another to produce an interesting two tone effect. Here, for example, a transparent amber core has been cast with a shiny black shell producing an interesting topographical effect with peaks of brown and transparent edges and stripes. This is best seen around the edges of the design and the tips of the tines.

This manner of wearing the decorative comb is shown in the accompanying photographs on the mannequin and in the last picture. This is taken from a contemporary photograph of the late 19th century.

Size: 6½ x 4½ ins (approx 16.5 x 11.5 cms)

£40.00

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Egyptian Revival Comb with Blue Rhinestones

Ref: DE-1008-017

This is a very beautiful and unusual hair comb made in the manner known as Egyptian Revival. It has a tall wedge shaped heading with five upstanding blades which are decorated in gold paint. These are further accentuated with deep blue rhinestones (2 absent). This manner of wearing such decorative combs is shown in the accompanying photographs on the mannequin. The final one is taken from a contemporary postcard and shows a sitter dressed in an Egyptian style headdress

The oriental theme in costume during the opening years of the 20th century was very strong. This taste for the exotic was given a fresh impetus by the discovery of the tomb of the boy king Tutankhamen in 1922.  The exotic Egyptian ornaments found in the tomb provided an ideal theme for costume jewellery. However, designers did not aim at authenticity but translated the mystical and symbolic grandeur of Egypt with a somewhat indiscriminate but affective assembly of stylised motifs which appeared to the makers to be “Egyptian” in character.

Size: 6¾ x 3¼   (approx 18 x 8 cms)

£60.00

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